From the marginalia

Charred Leeks Vinaigrette

Leeks cooked dark — black on the outside, sweet and silky inside — over a sharp mustard vinaigrette and chopped egg. The room-temperature first course you bring to a dinner party.

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Notes

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Ingredients

• 6 medium leeks, trimmed to white and pale green
• Olive oil, for the pan
• 2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
• 1 small shallot, minced
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 1 tbsp capers, rinsed
• Flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• Flaky salt, black pepper

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Method

1. 6 leeks · a bowl of cold water
   i. Halve the leeks lengthwise. Soak in cold water; rinse thoroughly between the layers. Pat dry.
2. olive oil · the leeks
   ii. Heat a heavy pan over medium-high. Coat with olive oil. Lay the leeks cut-side down. Cook undisturbed 6–8 minutes — they should char black at the edges.
3. a splash of water
   iii. Flip. Add a splash of water, cover, and cook 4 more minutes until tender all the way through. Transfer to a platter, cut-side up.
4. 1 tbsp mustard · 1 tbsp vinegar · 1 shallot · 3 tbsp olive oil · 1 tbsp capers · parsley
   iv. Whisk mustard, vinegar, and shallot. Stream in olive oil. Stir in capers and parsley. Season.
5. the vinaigrette · 2 chopped eggs · flaky salt · black pepper
   v. Spoon the vinaigrette over the warm leeks. Scatter the chopped egg across the top. Pepper, flaky salt. Serve at room temperature.

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